daniel jung

From Spain to Switzerland: Iceclimbing Festival in Kandersteg

2012-01-26T09:17:00.000-08:00

After a nice long last climbing day in Siurana we packed our stuff to be ready to leave Siurana. We were invited to the Iceclimbing festival in Kandersteg by Black Diamond. Luckily we met two nice boys from Switzerland who gave us a lift to Barcelona airport at 7 in the morning.

We arrived at Weeze airpot at 14:00, we were in Düsseldorf 2 hours later .... many hours of driving and later we arried in Kandersteg at 4 in the morning.

The competition was funny again. There was no ice, so it was totally dry tooling. This year it was about speed.. I wasn't so fast :-)

After the competition we visited the nice slideshow of Will Gladd and Tim Emmet.

The final was over very quickly, because it was about speed again, but interesting to watch. Really funny was the party after the competition :-) There was not so much sleep because we wantet to do some dry tooling on Sunday morning, that was funny again. But drytooling destroys the rock a lot so it is very important to just climb with axes on rock which is not useful for free climbing.

After a very long journey I'm back home, watching the forecasts and waiting for dry conditions :-)

Fall and Siurana

2012-01-22T10:57:00.000-08:00

I was very happybecause the weather was very nice for rock climbing the last 2,5 months, much,much better than the last two years. So I didn’t spend much time indoor anddrove to my projects very often. That was a lot of fun all the time! A lot ofnight climbing during the week with headlamps and scary boulders with a lot ofcrashpads. I was very lucky to send some awesome projects, I will write aboutlater...

During New Year andChristmas I was climbing in Siurana, the first week with Basti, later Markusand Laura arrived too.
Markus and me had a date with Bernardo Gimenez to shoot a video for BlackDiamond. I think we did some very nice shoots.

(Pictures from Bernardos blog: http://bernardogimenez.blogspot.com/)

In Siuranait was very nice to meet a lot of friends again. We had a funny Christmas partyat Agyros and Nikos place and of course a nice New Year party in Cornudella.

We were staying on the Camping Siurana, were we spent every evening in the barplaying games.

I have already spent a lot of time in Siurana but I still find some lines thatmake me want to go there again.

INGA

2011-11-26T06:58:00.000-08:00

On my Five Ten blog you find an article about INGA I did in the beginning of october in Gorges du Loup.

15 Jahre Chimpanzodrome

2011-11-09T14:15:00.000-08:00

Zum 15. Geburtstag des Chimpanzodromes wird es am 12.11.2011 eine große Jubiläumsparty geben.

Im Rahmen des Chimpanzodays biete ich einen Workshop an. Für die Workshop-Boulder wird Captain Crux mir neue Griff- Prototypen zur Verfügung stellen.
Wer Interesse hat an seinem Bewegungsfluss und seiner Fußtechnik zu arbeiten, kann sich im Champanzodrome zum Workshop anmelden.

Tagesprogramm ab 10:30

10:30 Chimpanzodrome "Milestonde- Wettbewerb"
ab 11:00 Schnupperklettern für Anfänger
11:00 Eisklettern/ Dry Toolong Test
13:00 Show- Training ChimpanzoKids
13:30 Show- Klettern mit Jan Hoyer und Daniel Jung
14:00 Workshop mit Daniel jung
15:00 High Five Boulder- Wettkampf

ab 20:00 Live- Musik & DJ
20:30 High Ball Jump Contest
Hier gibts mehr Infos.

GlobeWelt 2011

2011-10-26T09:40:00.000-07:00

Ich bin morgen für Black Diamond auf der GlobeWelt in Köln.
Markus kann leider nicht kommen, er ist unterwegs zum Worldcup.

Some days in Norway

2011-10-19T12:50:00.000-07:00

Markus made a short movie about our trip to Norway.
"..the Norwegian Rockmaster, some bouldering at the sea, our restdays and the first ascent of "Leck Crag" by Daniel. Unfortunately we had no video camera on "Hoca Hey"."

Here and small:

Or big on youtube

Viva La Vida

2011-10-06T02:55:00.000-07:00

Here is a very nice video from Micky Wiswedel he did last year. In the second part you can see my first ascent of "jungle speed".

Ceüse 2011

2011-09-30T13:45:00.000-07:00

A few weeks ago I was in Ceüse to visit Agata and Amit. It was a funny time playing a lot of games till late in the night, pancakes and every evening good israelian dinner done bye Amit.
Climbing was also nice,I did L'Arcadémicien 8c. Its a very nice crimpy route, only a litle overhanging..

Sadly the days are very short in September in Ceüse. The Shade comes very late and its going to be dark to fast. So I decided to go on to Gorges du Loup.

Norwegian Rockmaster 2011

2011-09-28T13:35:00.000-07:00

Here are two articles about our trip:

On Markus page and in the Black Diamond Journal

Patagonia 2

2011-04-03T10:22:00.000-07:00

I really like sweets from the bakery.. this is what I got in Bariloche:

really sweet nice sweets

After two nights in Hormigas home and some nice Argentinan dinners we moved on.

I thought that I was the only one travelling with two very big bagpacks. But the others also had a lot of stuff.

On the way to the bus.

In Patagonia there are a lot of streets without asphalt so it's very often very dusty like here on the bus..

We had to go more than 1000 km to the south to El Chalten. We spent one night and one day on the bus, it was a long time but it was nice to watch the landscapes and I had a lot of fun with the others.

This picture I took out of the toilet. I really enjoyed this place because of the fresh air. Maybe it sounds strange but there was the only window I could open.

I run up on a hill during a short bus stop to move a bit and to enjoy the view.

Finally we reached El Chalten in the night. At the bus station we were picked up by a friend of Silvia and we had a confortable night in here house.

After a big fight of who will get the most comfortable sleeping place. Here we are
organizing all the stuff again...

We were very lucky with the weather, I heard that it's not very often like this.
So the plan was to start the next day walking to the mountains. During the day we met some people and organized some actual information.
In the evening we went bouldering. There are some really beautiful blogs around!

That's Nico on a very nice one.

Patagonia 1

2011-03-28T03:52:00.000-07:00

My first trip to South America. It was a very spontaneous idea... During the Ice Climbing Festival in Kandersteg I was talking with Nico about Bigwalls in Patagonia. He planned to go there two weeks later. I didn't have any plans for February because I thought I had to learn for university. But at the end I could spend one month travelling. I was very lucky to book a good flight only 6 days before I set off to Argentinia.

After a long flight I reached Buenos Aires. The plan was to go to Bariloche to meet Sean, Nico, Silvia and Hormiga. But sadly I couldn't get a bus in the evening and I had to spend an uncomfortable night at Retio bus station .

I had to travel 1500 km on the bus. First the landscape was very boring, a lot of flat agricultural landscape.. But the next morning it got very beautiful!
nice deserts...

very big lakes...

nice canyons with crazy rock shapes...

And finally after one day and night on the bus I arrived in Bariloche. I just arrived at the right time, Sean, Nico, Silvia and Hormiga picked me up to go climbing. We had a good day on a nice rock over a lake in Bariloche:

Next plan was to go down to El Chalten...

Passion Verticale

2011-01-21T20:27:00.001-08:00

Last summer I met Pirmin and some friends in Ceüse. They just started their book project Passion Verticale, a book about the best rocks in Europa.

I just got some pictures form our shooting in "violent illusion":

(c)Pirmin Bertle

(c)Pirmin Bertle

Here you can find some climbing storys and follow Pirmins 365 days Passion Verticale trip.

ICE CLIMBING FESTIVAL Kandersteg

2011-01-21T18:33:00.000-08:00

Black Diamond invited Markus and me to the Ice Climbing Festival in Kandersteg!
I had just finished my Spain trip and drove with some friends to Germany. After a short night in Freiburg Markus picked me up and we reached the festival just in time.

I was so excited to climb with ice axes for the first time! We directly got some starting numbers for the dry tooling competition.
Luckily there was a possibility to warm up and to check how to use the crampons and axes on a short rock. Everybody said that it's easy, like climbing on big jugs.. But phh.. after 3 m I was already too pumped!
Finally it was ok, after getting a feeling for how the metal sticks on the rock.
I didnt`t expacted anything, even more after I had seen that I had to use the axe like an undercling in the qualification route...
Very unexpectedly everything went well and I was very excited when I reached the Top point! But sadly my axes glided off, so it was top minus and so out of the game. Normally it could be sad to miss the semifinal only because of one second, but I was still very happy about all the way I climbed!

Markus and me were very psyched to check out how it workes to climb on ice!! Luckily there was a toperope on nice ice. It was fun and not that compicated as expected.

I didn't try drytooling or mixed on natural rock, so I'm sure that it is very technical and that you need a lot of precison to snatch litle structures.. I will have to try this out too :-)

Before the final we watched the impressive "Big wall jamming" show of the Favresse brothers.

After having a really funny party in the night, we were very motivated to climb an iced waterfall! Sadly the ice quality wasn't good enough to go all the way up. But it was fun enough to check out how leading works with the icescrews on the first 20 m.
I just wanted to start climbing again when we heard breaking ice above us. I directly started running downhill. Markus was lucky to be safe fast, but I got a painful impact on my side. I was very lucky not to get it on my helmet. So two weeks later I still have a little blue and green blain on my side :-)
Also there was a workshop with some people next to us, but they luckily finished climbing to the right time. Only one girl got struck on her head, her helmet broke but she luckily wasn't hurt.

It was 6°C and a bit too warm for ice climbing, but the main problem was the sun on the upper part. From our point of view we couldn't see it.

So, ice climbing can be dangerous. But I'm still motivated to go again under colder and safer conditions.

For sure we will go to Kandersteg again next year! It was a very nice weekend with a lot of fun!

Nice first ascent in Siurana

2010-12-28T12:22:00.000-08:00

(c) Luka Fonda

I was very lucky yesterday. I send a project in Siurana very unexpected! Two days before I thought that it could be to hard for a two week trip. Luckily it was not that hard as I thought and I got the right conditions to the right time yesterday.

I think it has one of the smallest crimps I was crimping...

Pictures from the Norwegian Rockmaster

2010-09-13T10:37:00.000-07:00

Here are some pictures of the competition: KLICK

Climbing in Norway

2010-09-04T09:20:00.000-07:00

Close to Risor in the Skaravan Park Borre Bergshaven bolted a lot of new lines. On Sunday we went there to do some first ascents. Markus did a very nice 6c+ “Heidewitzka”, this one is for sure one of the best lines on that wall, also he did a 7a+ “Kauderwelsch”.
We also met Ivo from Five Ten on the competition, he gave us the very new Five Ten shoes we really like!Here I climb Heidewitzka with the very downturned Hornet.

I send a very nice looking 7c+ on an edge with a tricky slab and crack climbing at the top. Unfortunately most of the rock was very dirty and the belayer got a shower of dirt, that’s why I called the line “Flower Shower”. Markus and me were climbing till very late in the night with our headlamps. The Spanish boys Ekaitz Maiz and Gorka Kapapeto did a beautiful 8a “Man without brush”, which was fun to climb.

The day after we did “Tyrion” a nice 550m multi- pitch route at Haegefjell. It was very good granite climbing and our first high trade wall.

Thats the nice wall! We did the line in the center of the wall.

Litle dinner in middle of the wall

We spent our last day in Norway on the sailing ship of Borre.

Thats capitain Borre!

Norwegian Rockmaster

2010-09-02T10:54:00.000-07:00

We arrived well in Oslo! But there was still a long way to go. We had to wait 1,5h to get a rented car. At the airport we met Daila Ojeda and we drove 6 hours till we reached the meeting point which was only 290km away. Finally we arrived at 2 am and met the rest of the German team, Jule Wurm, Jan Hojer, Christian Popien and Jeremias Groß and got a very nice fishsoop.

Our accommodation in luxurious holiday-houses was a big contrast to our life in Céüse. It wasn’t easy to get up so early to compete. The next morning we also met the other competitors Andrea Cartas, Ekaitz Maiz, Gorka Kapapeto with friends and photographer from Spain and Basque, Malin Holmberg and Magnus Hogstrom from Sweden, Michelle Theisen from Denmark, Martina Cufar from Slovenia and Steve Mcclure from Britain.
It was very nice to met everybody and we had a lot of fun together!

The Isolation zone was around a new small crack which was bolted to have a warm-up area.
We had to climb on two qualification lines and one final line on a nice looking 30 to 40 m high granite wall. It was a very nice experience to climb a competition on real rock. Also the main wall was bolted just for this event, so the lines were new and because of that not really clean. You had to climb very carefully because a lot of footsteps broke. This was very pumpy, you couldn’t trust your feets, what makes climbing more exciting and funny. From the ground the lines looked very hard and it was mostly not possible to see any holds, sometimes you just had to guess where the easiest line was. The first line was only done by Steve Mcclure, most of the others fell on the crux which was difficult to read.
The Bolts in the beginning of the second route were set between two natural lines, so it was difficult to decide which way you should take. We think this was very nice, everybody could choose the way he preferred. For the first starters it was very hard, because there was no chalk on the wall and more lose stones. Markus was unlucky to be the second starter, he chose the direct way to clip the bolt. This was a very hard way and he slipped off.
I was lucky to be one of the last starters. The chalk from the climbers before made it easier to see were the best line was. When I reached the fourth bolt a crimp broke and I fell off. This was good luck, I was allowed to try this line again and could climb three bolts higher than before and become the leader of the ranking in qualification.
In the final Jan had bad luck and slipped off in a tricky part, me and the other climbers all fell at the same bolt. So the results of the qualification became important and I was very lucky to became the Norwegian Rockmaster!!

Also Jule was lucky to become Rock Master.

After the competition we had some time to jump into a nice lake and take a use of the whirlpool.

In the evening there was a nice party with two bands and nice salmon dinner.

On the whole it was a very nice competition on real rock. Borre Bergshaven organized a really good and funny event!

On the way to Norway

2010-08-27T04:41:00.000-07:00

Markus and me are lucky to be invited to the Norwegian Rockmaster. Now we are happy to arrive at Nice airport. On the way to the airport was a car crash and our bus coulden't go on. We allready thought that the plane will go without us, but we were lucky to get a good hitchhike possibility to the airport.

Now we are excited to see the norwegian rocks!

Goodbye shitty injury

2010-08-09T17:10:00.000-07:00

Two monthes ago, during I trained two-finger-crimp-power for my project.. there was a big "bang"! I crashed my annular! It was sure that it was something serious.
Beeing tired and heat is a bad combination.
It was the ring finger on my right hand, so it was possible to climb without it I thought. That was what I did the following three weeks. I spend some nice 8-finger-days on some rocks in my region. 3 days after the "Bang" I was able to climb my first 8a+ again! But also without using the finger it was painfull in my hand, so I just climbed very soft the following two or three weeks...Like Nideggen, some small rocks in the Sauerland, Ettringen and Berdorf. I even wasn't able to move my finger in the crimp position without pain... but it was possible to climb on very open holds.

All the time I keeped on moving my finger by pushing a very soft ball, this is very good for recovering. After a massage of my osteopath (thanks Philip!!) it becomes better and better every training.
Now I can crimp again!
Back in shape :)

Ready for the summertrip next week!

Spain trip

2010-06-08T06:05:00.000-07:00

Here are some pictures and a german article on the Black Diamond page:
BD-Athleten Markus & Daniel Jung berichten über ihren Klettertrip in Siurana, Spanien

Lizenz zum Bouldern

2010-04-05T05:40:00.000-07:00

Last summer I went with Udini to take some pictures for his new book. We also visited my favorit boulder in Siegen with one of the nicest dynos I know.

Making of movie:

For everybody how wants to learn or improve bouldering, you can order Lizenz zum Bouldern here or in the book shop: ISBN: 9783980480956

Jungle Speed

2010-03-18T17:01:00.000-07:00

During our Christmas trip in Siurana Toni Arbones showed me a nice project. On the right side of the "la capella" sector is a nice overhanging, limestone wave.

((c)by Markus Jung)
Working on it with Martin

The line didnt looks so hard, from the ground, I thought maybe 8b+.. but it took me a loong time to connect the single moves. It definetly had the hardest moves I did in a route. I worked on it nearly two weeks. Back home in January I set the crux move on my woody. I trained a lot to become strong for the very specific shoulder move.
After one month plastic climbing and training I went back to Siurana. Happily the crux worked much better :)
The line is short, not more than 12m. The hardest is to link two hard boulders in a raw or like two cruxs of a 8c+ route.. The most powerful move is a crazy shoulder move, the second a litle jump in a two finger pocket. The first hard move worked well, but catching the pooket took me a lot of time... There are only very small footsteps and its very hard to coordinate the jump..

I only had three weeks, sounds like a long time... but you have to find good condition, not to cold, not to warm and good skin. Some cuts on my fingertip made it very exciting, everything took some time. But finally I managed to catch the pocket and it was very scary to climb to the top. I really didnt want to fall up there! The moves are not that hard but on the upper slap it was very exciting to stay only in a bad slopy hole and make a long move up....
At the top there was still some snow in the last jug, but fortunetly the mantle is not that hard if you know how to do it. The last carabiner was icicled and I had to break it before I could clip the rope :)
I was very happy to were able to send this nice line before I had to leave!!!

During sending I precliped the second bold. I think if it is possible to clip the first bolts without help(sticks, stones...)from the ground its ok. But after sending I saw that it is also possible to clip it during climbing, what is for sure the more beautiful way, just didnt recogniced it before. I think it is good to know how it was done when a line was climbed for the first time.

((c)by Markus Jung)
I named it "Jungle Speed" because the ambiance is very green with some ivy growing up the trees and on the rock. And you need the same concentration and controlled reaction like in the game we played so much in the evening :)

Thanks to all patient belayers: Markus, Martin, Jasmin, Adelaide, Toni, Pinky, Bogna and the ones I forgot :)

There will be some more pictures soon.

Santa Linya, Siurana and Leche Caliente

2010-02-01T07:31:00.000-08:00

This winter we visited Spain again. We started from the Pfalz with Timm and Sebi. We drove down all the night and reached the cave at 10 in the morning, a good time for a long climbing day. I really like the cave, there were not that many tufas and not so overhanging as I expected and a good first climbing day!

But in the evening bad luck began.. When we started to cook our new MSR cooker directly broke down. For this case we had a campingaz cooker in addition, because we had had some bad experience with the MSR before. Unfortunately -7°C was a bit too cold and that cooker didn't work either... Finally we made a campfire and everything was good.

Having frozen milk and muesli wasn't very comfortable but it was very nice to climb with this tamperatures in the spanish sun.
Sadly it started to snow and we had to spend our first restday in the tent. In the evening we recognized our second problem.. There was no dry wood in the snow and still freezing cold. We were lucky to have enough pasta left from the day before. It was one big funny ice-block which I had to break! Eating it and the weather on the next day was't funny.. We were lucky to stay in the cave so we could climb all day there in spite of the rain. Finally our third day in Santa Linya was our last day on dry rock.

But at least it was getting warmer and the gazcooker worked :-) We were very happy when Blomu dryed during one dry day. Markus and me tried this nice line before.
After three tries I had enough endurance to climb to the last move. Thats the hardest one and very funny. I walked up all the way to caressed the last hold three times, so it was nice to stuck the next go. Nice route! Markus happily send it also that day...

Here he is just at that point where it is going to be pumpy.

... it was the last dry day for Blomu...

After some people had told us that there would be a lot of rain the next days, we turned to Siurana and better weather.
I wanted to take a look at a project which Toni Arbones had proposed me two years ago... It was a project which was bolted by Christian "Pinky" Winklmaier in "grau del massets" a few years ago. Happily he also was there and showed me the moves of his line. I really like it, short bouldery and really nice typical Siurana rock. The hardest is to jump up from a spiky two fingercrimp to catch a sloper. Very nice move! After three detailed workouts I was lucky to catch the sloper and send the route. I really enjoyed this climb, sending was much harder and exciting than Blomu which I had done the day before. When I ordered a leche caliente that evening the bargirl taught me that it was dangerous to order this. It also means "slap in the face", so we thought that this is a nice name for the route, were you have to slap a sloper.

We had some nice days in Siurana, but the day before we planned to drive home it started to snow.

It was snowing so much that there was no chance to climb or to drive down to town. So, we were stuck on the campground. In this region 50 roads were closed, 11 towns without electricity and only two snow ploughs. We had around 60 cm snow and there was no way to drive.

It wasn't boring, there were some more people having the same problem and we were diggin the whole saturday to clear the camp street and get out all cars. Finally Sunday afternoon the snow plough reached the campground and we could drive home.

When the first Uni lecture started we were still on the road. But at the end I only missed one of my three lectures :-)

ESCALATION

2009-11-24T07:09:00.001-08:00

The day started well: good luck in the first route, a nice knot in the 5th bolt

And really good conditions: sunny, cool and windy.. Kevin, Mar, Nicki(well hidden), me and Markus behind his camera.

I came to Berdorf again to try a very nice line I had worked on once before.
While working on "nikita" I recognized that nice overhanging, unstructured part of the wall, for me it looked imposive! After looking well I saw that its not that unstructured. There is just what you need and nothing more. A perfect line to the left throught that nice overhanging wall.
I started to figure out the moves, but I damaged my finger on that long mono move..

Small holds but a big problem, one crimp, one mono, a long move to a crimp and not so much footsteps...

When I tried it the first time I dameged my tendon on that mono move :-) This time I tried it a bit more carefully and figured out how to do the crux.

I tried all sunday, a lot of fights, I came closer and closer with every try but it also becomes darker and more dark with every try... So the last tries I had to use my lovely headlamp again. I didn' expect to send it this day, but after I changed my foot I finally send it..

"Escalation" starts in "Cima Ovest" and after 5m you traverse to the very left around the edge. There it ends when you stay in a nohand rest.

How to clip: after the 4th bolt of "cima ovest" you go on big holds to the good holds on the left. You can easily clip the bolt(4th of nikita) and go on for the crux to the left. When you reach the arête you find a bold infront of you. Thats the last you clip, you can jump out of the no hand on the left, so you have a happy end :-)

Burning fingers on the way home..

Other pictures and the german text are here....

All pictures (c)by Markus Jung

A nice day

2009-11-18T05:37:00.001-08:00

After two weeks of rain we were very happy to meet the sun in Ettringen last sunday.
I did some nice clean climbing and tried an old project on the Höllentor wall. Its a 3m boulder on perfect basalt, it was bolted some years ago by Thomas Wille.
I tried it last year a bit but I coulden't move in it. With the cool temperature now there suddenly were some small holds.
After a lot of tries I figured out how to do it. Like every time in Ettringen it becomes dark to quick... But no problem climbing with headlamp is fun and so you could watch two small lights, Kevin and me walking all the evening from his project to my project and back... After a lot of walking and falling, Kevin becomes a friend of climbing in the dark and send his route and after some more tries I was very happy to send "half live" also.
Going up to the top was a litle adventure, I had to onsight a nice clean crack, but the upperpart was wet and slippery... But at 20:00 I was sitting happy on top of the wall :) What a nice boulderstart! Very slopy, with a very high highstep on a flat slopy edge... trust your feet and thanks fiveten.

After climbing we were invited by Ettringens caretaker and friend Armin to eat pasta, very nice!!!
It shoulden't be a long evening, but it was... The last two times driving back we went on the highway into the wrong direction, so we really took attention (also like the time before... But..after a long time on the highway I recogniced that we were in the oppesite direction again... shit! the third time in a row... Ok, turning around and driving the right way back again... The gas becames less and less... finally we found a gasstation in the middle of nowhere... but they closed when we arrived...there was no gasstation in front of us... so we had to drive back to an other open one... And finally after a long time on the road we arrived back in Siegen..:)

Home

2009-10-23T07:30:00.000-07:00

Back at home, back at uni, back in the caves and sore muscles in my back.

Monday the 12th I came back from my long France trip. I started sunday morning hitchhicking from Valence. And after a long day with 6 or 7 cars I reached Siegen at 2:30 early enough to go to the university :-)

I allready spend three days in my new roof project, I'm psyched! Good weather is coming!!!

eye on ceüse

2009-10-14T01:16:00.000-07:00

First two pictures by Tiffany, rest by Jung

Some Ceuse pictures

2009-10-13T12:46:00.000-07:00

I climbed sometimes with Tiffany how borrowed me her nice camera. So I went around to take some pictures:

restday

The days were to short, so we did a lot of climbing in the dark with headlamps

belaying agata

Invitational

2009-10-01T15:14:00.000-07:00

This year I was again invited to the Bronx Rock Invitational Competition in Cologne. So after two nice climbing weeks in Ceuse I drove back to Germany to compet. One night in Siegen, I sadly had to give the nice car back to my parents and pack my back for a 2 month trip. After the competition I wanted to go back to the rocks.

Six boys and six girls were invited to set up a boulder. On the first Invitational 2007 I set a very long boulder, I used a part from one, all holds and all the setting time. After that I was to tired to climb anything, So my plan for this year was to set fast a short nice not to hard boulder. Finally it was again a small route whish starts in a roof, go in to a mantel into a no hand rest and a final slab run to a jug.

(pictures by udini.de)
I mostly spend time on my boulder again because it becomes harder than I thought after all the pumpy setting. So sadly the time was a bit to short for me to try all boulders..
A lot of people liked my boulder so that I won the best boulder award and got one of the nice prices:

(picture by flow media, simon sticker)

Here the video:

During the last minuts I sadly twist my ankle... First it seemed to be not so bad but on sunday my foot become so swollen that I was not able to put him into my shoe, also walking was not really possible. Travelling per hitchhicking was not possible like this so that I had to go home to rest. One boring week only putting up my foot. but luckily only one week. It was still swollen but not that painfull and a friend was going down to France! So I went to Ceuse again :)
Maybe not the best place for a dameged foot but finally it was ok. After my first climbing day I needed 2,5 hours, to go down from the rock to the camping. Walking downhill was very painfull but maybe a good medicin because after my foot become much better and I could walk and climb very well again!

Ceuse!

2009-10-01T14:22:00.001-07:00

From Munich I drove with a friend on to France, Ceuse my favorit climbing area. Here I was very happy to see that there were many new hard routs! A new 8c Arquedemicien in Demi lune, a new 8c or 8c+ La Part du Diable in Biographie and a lot of nice projects.

My home arrived in Gap, good shopping and parking.

Some tries in Biographie:
(Picture(c) by Rémy Bergasse)

I'm every time happy about clouds, no sun warmed rock and nice sticky conditions!

Every time nice dinners:

First part of my summer trip 2009

2009-09-29T05:11:00.000-07:00

First time in Kochel!
I had a nice week with friends in Munich were I climbed a lot in Kochel. I only visited one sector the rocky wall, which I realy like! A bit overhanging and realy good rock quality. The most beautiful rout I did was Wicky a nice 8a+ on perfect rock.

This time I travelled without camera, but I took some pictures with my mobilephone. When I was in front of the rock I was to focosed in climbing to take a picture of the wall. So you have the pleasure see one of the funny Kochel houses:

Old Shatterhand

2009-07-21T06:22:00.000-07:00

(c)pictures by Markus Jung

Old Shatterhand

2009-07-13T11:35:00.000-07:00

Yeah!! New route in the wild west of Germany! Last saturday I was happy to find good conditions for my project in Ettringen. Really great dynamic power-endurance line on pinches and solpers in the roof.

Its the original line I was trying on some weekends during the last year. Schokoade was a version with a soft start, now I was able to do it with the hard beginning.

I fell of around 30 times on the same last hard move, every day like 5 times :-) Directly after this move, a long snatch to a sloper, you move your feet to the other side and do a kneebar to have a no-hand. Two times I fell of with my foot allready placed on the point to do a kneebar, funny exciting. Now I'm happy about sending it, was big fun to try it!!

Now some other projects are waiting :-)

8a.nu interview

2009-06-22T09:41:00.000-07:00

A few weeks ago Benedikt Boss from 8a.nu ask me some questions about Supercowboy and some other things. Here you can find the german version:

[Beam-me-to-the-interview-buttom]

There will be also an english version later.

Volltrauf

2009-06-07T06:36:00.000-07:00

Programm
More infos on www.volltrauf.de

Weekends

2009-05-22T00:47:00.000-07:00

Last weekend I visited Luxembourg for the first time this year. Berdorf is one of my favorit climbing areas and the best sandstone I climbed.
On sunday I could do the first ascent of a nice combi-route. "Nu-skool phunk" starts in Nikita and traverses on the nice pocketline to the right where you follow the edge of the roof. The moves are very nice bouldery in the beginning and after athletic in the very steep part. The route ends in the no hand rest were you can sit down on. For clipping you use the first three bolts of Nikita, the 4th bolt of Cima ovest where you should clip 2 or three for easy clipping (its more easy to reach the 3rd but it will be shitty to fall), one bolt of ayrton the one under the roof and for going down you have a bolt between your legs when you sit on top. Try it, it's big fun!!

I also climbed Isatis one of best 7c+ I did. First Isatis is a litle bit overhanging and close to the to is close to be a slab. Very small crimps in the best sandstone I know! On day later I did Yollin after a very long workout. one day before I thought that that Isatis is the hardest 7c+ I know, but Yollin is much harder! the beginning looks not much spectacular from the bottom but there is one very nice boulder. The hard crux comes at the top on the nice flat wall. The holds are very, very small and this route will for sure never get a ascent in the summer sun. During my work out I tried a lot but I coulden't do two moves. When I start my first try from the bottom I had luck to get a bit wind and dry my skin, before the crux you have a good jug for catching wind. Sending this crux was more exciting than my ascents of other 8cs I did. Here everything depends on your skin, a litle swaet and I have no chance to hold this tiny structures. Not possible to get controll because of power. Yollin has for sure one of the most beautifull crux I know!

If you want to climb in Berdorf you need a permission, there are controls!! You can order a permission for free for a few days. More infos here...

The weekend before I was in Ettringen to try my project in the cave. On the last day I fall 5 times on the crux move.
The next move is the hardest, snatching to the sloper on the roof edge...

Very nice trad warmups in Ettringen:

Pictures (c) by Markus Jung

Last days in Spain

2009-05-20T08:21:00.001-07:00

Some more pictures from Margalef and Siurana

A hard rest day in Margalef with Szymon. After a long hard walk without a way, through bushes on the left side of the lake, we were to tiered to do the bush expedition again and decide to swim to the other side of the lake. It looked like a confortable way back on the other side. So I swam.. It was a very exhausting and freezing experience...

Mhhmmm, every day nice meals!

A climbing fellow is looking for the rock

Cornudellar

Someone attempt to go back to the sea in Reus

Everything I need in my favorit shop

One of to many bad weather days

Dream line...

Back to Siurana

A cold, rain and wet holds... Not much climbing during the last days. So I had the hope to send a route on my last day. When I woke up there was perfect weather and I was very happy about a nice last day! So, it was very sad that it started to rain again after I had finished my breakfast... There was no hope left to to go climbing on my last day and we started playing cards.
During the late afternoon the rain suddenly stopped, and we all got really motivated to climb. We thought about going to Can Melafots because there it was very windy and I had left one 8b there uncompleted. Luckily the wall was nearly dry after the long rain! Putting up the quickdraws on "Bestiola" was a good warmup and I could send it directly in the next go. It wasn't too late to walk fast down to El Parti, "Kalea Borroka" was waiting for me. I hoped that it would be dry... I had tried it two days before and slipped off a wet hold. This time it wasn't drier but dry enough. I climbed a bit more carefully and could send it, too.

This is the funny way to come back to the ground when the rope is to short :)

It started getting dark, but I wanted to leave all my power in Siurana, last day!! There was one more route I wanted to send, "Zona O". I took a rest and it was totally dark, but I was prepared for a long day: I had taken my headlamp. First I thought: ok no chance you will look for foothoolds all the time.. But its worked well, just one time my arm threw a shadow on a footstep, fortunately it was not a problem. This time it was a very pumpy go, but I was able to crimp me all the line up! What a perfect last climbing day!!!

All pictures (c) by Jung

Super Cowboy

2009-05-14T09:09:00.000-07:00

After a lot of workouts and some tries, I’ve managed to do the project! The line which starts in Kalea Borroka and traverses to the left into Aphrodita is now called Super Cowboy. It was bolted by Toni Arbones, so I just had to clean the route a bit and I could start trying.
In contrast to the other routes in El Pati Super Cowboy is just a boulder. It’s just traversing to the left with funny moves on small crimps. To the top you follow a crack line which is nicely technical. Doing the crack intersection is a little bit like adventure climbing. After a lot of workouts I was very, very happy to be able to send this nice line! Traversing is big fun, long moves, crimp hunting and crazy hooks!

Grading is difficult; it’s not possible to compare with other routes on El Pati. But, when I look back it could be the same as “L’odi social”, maybe a bit harder.
I will post some more infos later!
Picture (c) by Miha Škof

Migranya

2009-05-09T10:47:00.000-07:00

A pumpy picture story:

This is Emmanuelle the Eidechse, I met her in Siurana. You know her from some pictures I posted before.

We talked a bit about climbing and discussed climbing speed. She said that she would reach the anker of Megranya faster than me!! I couldn't believe that!! So, we got ready for a race!

Three, two, one, gooo!!!

Chalking, perhaps not the best tactic...

The crux of migaya:

Pumpy, pumpy!! Quickly up to the rest!!

Puhh, the rest.. I thought I would be much faster than Emmanuelle the Eidechse and so I took a rest...

And running a again!

Ahh, close to the top... but while I wos doing the last moves I didn't expect that Emmanuelle the Eidechse was waching me from the top of the wall...

Incredible!! The Eidechse was much faster, I was really impressed! Congratulations, Emmanuelle!!

I spend my next climbing day watching her when she was climbing. Now I know what to do to climb as fast and strong as she does! Back here, I start to train like she does...

Pictures (c) by Miha Škof

some more pictures

2009-04-29T13:44:00.000-07:00

(c)Pictures by Jung

my world

2009-04-28T03:14:00.000-07:00

Here I will upload in the next days some more pictures I took on my trip.

(c)Pictures by Jung

In Spain again!

2009-03-15T07:40:00.000-07:00

Since middle of February Ihave been staying in Siurana.
In the first weeks I was very motivated to take a look in to the very hard routes here. So on my first day I directly visited "a muerte". But after 3 checkouts I had 3 flappers on my finger, not bad but painful

On my second day I wanted to rest from pockets and took a look into "La rambla".
I really like this line and I spendt some days working on it. The moves are not as hard as I thought, but its so long for me!! My skin is not used to climb on big holds:
I didn`t want to train my endurance only on one route so I decided to try "Patinoso"8c/+ at first. Its 10m on the right of "La rambla". First part is endurance to a nice little dyno, then it's more or less easy to a very good rest followed by an hard boulder. I really like this route! For me it was very hard to try. I fell off after the first endurance part with big pumped arms. After the checkout I thought that I would do it fast, but trying from the ground was different :-) During the ascent I felt so pumped that I couldn`t emagine to be able to do it. The good rest felt very bad for me, after a few minutes of resting it was a bit relaxing but still pumped... I tried and my max power was good again so that I was really surprised when I did the crux!

Now I have started working on a project in the El Pati Sektor.
It was bolted by Toni Arbones but no one is trying it. And nobody tried it, there were a lot of loose stones, a few crimps broke and it's fucking sharp:
I worked a few days and the route is clean now. Tomorrow I will try it again!!

This is my oasis home, with everything I need!

(c)Pictures by Jung

Back to Chikane

2009-02-06T15:34:00.000-08:00

A few days before Christmas I flew down to Reus with Markus, Lulu Raab und Philipp Sigel. We had two good weeks, with hot sun, could wind, rain and snow!

I was really motivated to try "Chikane"8c+ again. So on my first day I tried it directly and it works very good. I thought that I have to do some workouts to do the sequence again. But after the first workout everything felt good so that I could start from the bottom! During I tryed "Chikane" Markus checked out "L'odi Social"8c+. Last march I also took a look into this one but I couldn't find a good method for the crux. It was Markus style, long moves and a bit athletic. He found a good way to do it, and I was also psyched to try it, but first "Chikane"!
There was just one hard move for me. You have a very small crimp for the left and an two finger crimp with the right. than you have to do a long move to the right and cath a edge. This move depends a lot of dry skin and so of good conditions. A little sweat and there is no way! And its very hard to keep dry skin after 7 moves on small crimps which are not bigger than the half of your fingertip.. Also its a kind of balance to to move to the right...

The first days we had to wait for the shade and for cool rock. In the shade the conditions were perfect and I was so happy to do the scary move to the right!!

After the crux it is wasn't over, I had noticed during I was resting :-)... The rest is good, big holds on vertical rock. The problem is that you are losing your feeling in your feet during resting! Before the chain is a tricky slab boulder on very small crimps wich makes the ascent to an adventure! I had big luck to be able to do it without feeling in my feet :-)

Lulu and Philipp had also good gos. Lulu could send almost every day a 7a or 7b+ and Philipp did "Anabolika" 8a very fast!

In "L'odi social" 8c+ Markus method worked also very well for me. I started trying this one and I reached more and more closer. But then it started snowing and the days after it was raining... I did some tries during humid and wet condition, I was close but happy to don't reach the top slab, because this one was totally wet :-) I hoped a lot to get dry weather. The end of my trip came closer and i had just one more day... I had big luck! Martijn a friend from the Netherlands wanted to give me a lift to the airport, so that I had two more days!! And also the weather turned good!!
Apparently climbing during wet conditions was good training and I send "L'odi social"!!

After that I was really motivated, so that I workedout "El Membre"8c the same evening. I tried "El Membre" before but everytime the pokets were not my friends. Also this time the moves felt hard. The next day I was not really optimistic to do it, but I was motivated, it was fun to try!! The day before I couldn't emagine to do it, so it was a big surprise when I did it!!! What a perfect climbing trip!!
The last light of the day we used to take some pictures in "Chicane" and "L'odi". After doing the cruxes a few times I was done with climbing, puhhh...

The day was still long, because it was the 31.12.!! Lulu, Markus, Philipp and me wanted to watsh the firework from the top of the refugio. A very good view!! But at 00:00 nothing happends. Finally we saw three rockte! Nice to see that spanish people don't waste their money in this way:-)
The party on Tonis Camping was fun and the night short... Thanks a lot to Martijn to drive me to the airport on 1.1.09 in the morning!!!!

Lulu,Philipp and Markus stood a bit longer in Siurana. Back home I was happy to hear that Markus could do with "L'odi social" his first 8c+!!!

And he also send "El Membre" an sflashed "la cara que no miente" 8a+!

Philipp was also very strong and did his first 8a+ "Gigololo", "la cara que no miente" and three other 8as!
Good Job!!!!

Pictures by Gereon and Jung

Schokolade

2009-02-06T14:58:00.001-08:00

December 2008 Markus und me visited the Cave in Ettringen again. After 130 km driving

we were happy to find perfect conditions!
It was really freezing and to warm up was really hard. We were very happy about the heater of Armin, which makes the situation comfortable.

We had very good catering!

Warming up my Jet7 :-)

We wanted to try the new soft version of my projekt: Schokolade.
What a nice line, I really like the crux moves! When you are climbing out of "grieg ich gerne" you need a lot of bodytension to go on slopy crimps and walking into a flat undercling. From this undercling you have to dyno up to a sloper on the roof edge. Than it is hard to swing your feet to the left pillar to kneebar. After that its over just technical, nice moves to the left.
After a good checkout of the crux and a few gos I managed to do the hard moves and climb to the top.
It was a long day again ;-)

Schokolade is for sure the hardest rout in Ettringen now. When we worked it out we thought about 11-, everytime it was fucking could and we had no heater. Now with much more warm forearms moving felt much easier! So i think its something like 10+/11-.

Thanks to all belayers and Armin for the heater!
(c)Pictures by Markus Jung

Borghausen

2009-01-28T15:54:00.000-08:00

In the end of last year, Fritz Blach bolted a nice area close to Attendorn NRW. Its 30m high and some parts of the rock are really good quality limestone! Amazing to climb on tufas in germany! Not everything is high quality, but a lot!!
Most routs are around 6a+/b, but they are all soft rated. Very sad that one very good rout is chipped, the natural way is a nice technical 6c+, but its chipped to 5... Hope that someone will fill-up the chipped holds.
Copyright by Jung, Markus in the hardest rout 7a+/7b, very compact limestone! In the background you can see perfect rock!

I went there with the WDR to climb some projects and to mark places for bolts for new routs. Here you can see a short movie.

Copyright by Jung, the days are to short! Me doing a nice technical 6c+ slab. Looks a bit dirty, but after brushing its very good! Also very nice compact limstone.

And here you can find more Infos about Borghausen:

This is the same area but an other sector. Its one of the two rocks I did my first rock experience. In 1998 we start trade climbing here, the easy routs are really alpin ;-) Most climbs are around 4/5. But there are 4 routs 7b+ and harder on really dream limestone!

This is my futuristic dream project, very hard!!!

This is a very beautiful crimpline: Katharsis 8b+. Like all hard routs in this area it was done first by Theodoros Konstantakopoulos. He did it June 2007, for me incredible because the microcrims don't allow to sweat.
This is the crux, micro-crimp with left and a long move to a slopy crimp...

Last moves are also hard, here is Markus on the last moves. Very nice beta!! Throwing the right foot around the corner to toehook to move on and snatch the good hold with right...

(c)Pictures by Markus Jung, Udini

Siurana march 2008

2009-01-23T12:05:00.000-08:00

Here you can find a video of Chikane 8c+ I tried in march 2008.

You see me fighting after 3 days climbing on my second last day of this trip. Had not much skin and it was very painfull, so it was a big suprise for me to send "Dos por Trenta" 8c on my last day. "Dos por Trenta" is a 40m endurance route in El Pati, Siurana. Crimpy, little dyno, good rest, technical crack, a nice boulder and scary to the top, because of the tired arms and a to hard beta ;-)

Thanks Fridolin Sent for uploading!

My trip to Rodellar

2009-01-23T11:38:00.000-08:00

Hier gibts ein Bericht von meinem Rodellar Trip:

http://www.klettern.de/news/sportklettern-bouldern/daniel-jungs-tickliste-aus-rodellar-8c-8c-9a.273946.5.htm

copyright by szymon dziukiewicz
Los Inconformistas 9a

copyright by Alexey Dengin
Los Inconformistas 9a

Ettringen Nightsession

2008-11-19T10:43:00.001-08:00

Letzten Freitag sind Markus und ich nochmal nach Ettringen gefahren um unsere Projekte zu versuchen. Leider sind wir erst recht spät aus Siegen weggekommen, so dass wir vom Tageslicht nicht mehr viel mitbekommen haben und mit Stirnlampe klettern musste.

Andreas Eisenhauer konnte vor kurzem sein Projekt „grieg ich gerne“10-/10 durchgestiegen, eine schöne Einstiegsalternative zu „Krieg der Sterne“10+.
Ich hab Andreas neue Route dann auch als Eintiegsvariante für mein Projekt genutzt. So muss ich nur einen der beiden schweren Boulder klettern und ein Durchstieg in naher Zukunft ist näher gerückt.

Markus konnte sich die zweite Begehung der „grieg ich gerne“in zwei Versuchen hohlen. Ich habe sie danach auch noch durchstiegen können, an den abschüssigen Griffen laufen einem ziemlich die Arme zu! Echt eine super Route, sehr zu empfehlen! Die Kletterei ist sehr interessant, man klettert immer an großen abschüssigen Griffen und um weiter zu ziehen muss man meist irgendwo hooken.
Mal hoffen, dass es trocken bleibt, damit wir wieder hin fahren können...

psicobloc groges du verdon

2008-11-12T08:28:00.000-08:00

Sommer 2007 waren Anna, Frederike, Markus und ich zum psicoblocen in der Verdon Schlucht. Udo Neumann war mit seiner Kamera dabei und auf seiner Seite gibts ein Filmchen: www.udini.de

Test

2008-11-09T13:12:00.000-08:00

La la la du du ...