Since middle of February Ihave been staying in Siurana.
In the first weeks I was very motivated to take a look in to the very hard routes here. So on my first day I directly visited "a muerte". But after 3 checkouts I had 3 flappers on my finger, not bad but painful
On my second day I wanted to rest from pockets and took a look into "La rambla".
I really like this line and I spendt some days working on it. The moves are not as hard as I thought, but its so long for me!! My skin is not used to climb on big holds:
I didn`t want to train my endurance only on one route so I decided to try "Patinoso"8c/+ at first. Its 10m on the right of "La rambla". First part is endurance to a nice little dyno, then it's more or less easy to a very good rest followed by an hard boulder. I really like this route! For me it was very hard to try. I fell off after the first endurance part with big pumped arms. After the checkout I thought that I would do it fast, but trying from the ground was different :-) During the ascent I felt so pumped that I couldn`t emagine to be able to do it. The good rest felt very bad for me, after a few minutes of resting it was a bit relaxing but still pumped... I tried and my max power was good again so that I was really surprised when I did the crux!
Now I have started working on a project in the El Pati Sektor.
It was bolted by Toni Arbones but no one is trying it. And nobody tried it, there were a lot of loose stones, a few crimps broke and it's fucking sharp:
I worked a few days and the route is clean now. Tomorrow I will try it again!!
This is my oasis home, with everything I need!
(c)Pictures by Jung