Two monthes ago, during I trained two-finger-crimp-power for my project.. there was a big "bang"! I crashed my annular! It was sure that it was something serious.
Beeing tired and heat is a bad combination.
It was the ring finger on my right hand, so it was possible to climb without it I thought. That was what I did the following three weeks. I spend some nice 8-finger-days on some rocks in my region. 3 days after the "Bang" I was able to climb my first 8a+ again! But also without using the finger it was painfull in my hand, so I just climbed very soft the following two or three weeks...Like Nideggen, some small rocks in the Sauerland, Ettringen and Berdorf. I even wasn't able to move my finger in the crimp position without pain... but it was possible to climb on very open holds.
All the time I keeped on moving my finger by pushing a very soft ball, this is very good for recovering. After a massage of my osteopath (thanks Philip!!) it becomes better and better every training.
Now I can crimp again!
Back in shape :)
Ready for the summertrip next week!