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screenshot by fromjugtojug |
It is done! I sent The
Elder Statesman on Friday. Some pain, a lot of blood and tape but it was a lot
of fun!
It's not a long route, but
during the first 25 moves you need a lot of concentration. The wall isn't that
steep and the holds are small and sharp. So its a lot of struggling with the
skin and conditions. Handling this and being precise and concentrated is the
main difficulty of the route I think.
Markus Bock
did the first ascent in 2011 and graded it 11/11+, so it is one of the three
hardest routes in Germany. It is located in a very beautiful area
and I enjoyed a lot to spend some time there.
I had already worked it out earlier this year. It wasn't too
easy to figure out the beta for the first boulder. There is one small structure that's difficult to recognise as a hold when it wasn't chalked. So I needed to
work it out a bit, but everything else worked fine.
You mainly climb on crimps,
that’s my style! But they are so sharp that I lost a lot of
skin at every workout... There especially were two holds I was worried about... Easy to hold
with good skin and good conditions.. But sometimes there was no chance to put
weight on it. Luckily I found a nice beta to skip this skin cutters. I ended up
with a long powerful move to a shoulder hold. Funny, it was a kind of Jungle Speed
move I liked so much :-)
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screenshot by fromjugtojug |
The Sector isn’t so popular,
so it’s difficult to find a partner. I was lucky that Manu Brunn was motivated
to try it too. It was a nice time trying it together. Apart from one section
we used the same beta, but the moves that were hard for me, he did easily and
for me it was the other way around. One week ago, he sent it! Was nice to see
it! And there will be a video of him soon. Some other days I got
special belays from Markus, Alex Schweikart and Chris Mengel, super nice.
In the evening of the 4th
climbing day this fall- trip I managed to climb from the mono in the beginning
up to the top. That was pretty much all off the route, so I was ready to try to
send. After one rest day I fell off three times on a snatch up to a crimp. I
really hoped to send the route after getting the crimp... It's hard after that, but
still possible to fall… .That would be annoying! Manu fell off after that move several times, so I had a lot of respect of the end of
the route...
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screenshot by fromjugtojug |
I rested at home and drove
back to the rock the following weekend. I was very motivated, but I got two
cuts in the first go... That had already happed a few times before, but this time I
even couldn't climb with tape...very bad, one weekend without any good try... After
some days at university we drove back. I wasn't too optimistic to send
it... I taped my fingers, and did it on the 4th go of the day, that was
nice!!!
Manu and I think that it is maybe more 9a, but not a soft one I think even if it isn't so powerful..
The last day I saw Gabriele
giving some good tries. So good luck for him!
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