On sunday I could do the first ascent of a nice combi-route. "Nu-skool phunk" starts in Nikita and traverses on the nice pocketline to the right where you follow the edge of the roof. The moves are very nice bouldery in the beginning and after athletic in the very steep part. The route ends in the no hand rest were you can sit down on. For clipping you use the first three bolts of Nikita, the 4th bolt of Cima ovest where you should clip 2 or three for easy clipping (its more easy to reach the 3rd but it will be shitty to fall), one bolt of ayrton the one under the roof and for going down you have a bolt between your legs when you sit on top. Try it, it's big fun!!
I also climbed Isatis one of best 7c+ I did. First Isatis is a litle bit overhanging and close to the to is close to be a slab. Very small crimps in the best sandstone I know! On day later I did Yollin after a very long workout. one day before I thought that that Isatis is the hardest 7c+ I know, but Yollin is much harder! the beginning looks not much spectacular from the bottom but there is one very nice boulder. The hard crux comes at the top on the nice flat wall. The holds are very, very small and this route will for sure never get a ascent in the summer sun. During my work out I tried a lot but I coulden't do two moves. When I start my first try from the bottom I had luck to get a bit wind and dry my skin, before the crux you have a good jug for catching wind. Sending this crux was more exciting than my ascents of other 8cs I did. Here everything depends on your skin, a litle swaet and I have no chance to hold this tiny structures. Not possible to get controll because of power. Yollin has for sure one of the most beautifull crux I know!
If you want to climb in Berdorf you need a permission, there are controls!! You can order a permission for free for a few days. More infos here...
The weekend before I was in Ettringen to try my project in the cave. On the last day I fall 5 times on the crux move.
The next move is the hardest, snatching to the sloper on the roof edge...
Very nice trad warmups in Ettringen:
Pictures (c) by Markus Jung
1 Kommentar:
hey daniel, ich halte es fuer meine pflicht, dich in sachen gestein zu korrigieren. berdorf hat nichts mit 'limestone' zu tun, sondern ist astreiner 'sandstone'! auch wenns immer wie limestone aussieht...
ansonsten lass mich bitte deine berichte auf klimbim.de korrigieren! wenns der joystick schon nicht fuer noetig haelt, das ein wenig zu schleifen.
du weisst, ich mag deine art. aber es liest sich so holprig...
schoene gruesse ausm yosemite! und kuck mal auf meinen blog ;)
cheers
marc
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