The day started well: good luck in the first route, a nice knot in the 5th bolt

And really good conditions: sunny, cool and windy.. Kevin, Mar, Nicki(well hidden), me and Markus behind his camera.

I came to Berdorf again to try a very nice line I had worked on once before.
While working on "nikita" I recognized that nice overhanging, unstructured part of the wall, for me it looked imposive! After looking well I saw that its not that unstructured. There is just what you need and nothing more. A perfect line to the left throught that nice overhanging wall.
I started to figure out the moves, but I damaged my finger on that long mono move..

Small holds but a big problem, one crimp, one mono, a long move to a crimp and not so much footsteps...

When I tried it the first time I dameged my tendon on that mono move :-) This time I tried it a bit more carefully and figured out how to do the crux.

I tried all sunday, a lot of fights, I came closer and closer with every try but it also becomes darker and more dark with every try... So the last tries I had to use my lovely headlamp again. I didn' expect to send it this day, but after I changed my foot I finally send it..

"Escalation" starts in "Cima Ovest" and after 5m you traverse to the very left around the edge. There it ends when you stay in a nohand rest.

How to clip: after the 4th bolt of "cima ovest" you go on big holds to the good holds on the left. You can easily clip the bolt(4th of nikita) and go on for the crux to the left. When you reach the arête you find a bold infront of you. Thats the last you clip, you can jump out of the no hand on the left, so you have a happy end :-)

Burning fingers on the way home..

Other pictures and the german text are here....

All pictures (c)by Markus Jung

2 Kommentare:

climbingpost hat gesagt…

nice pics!!

Marc Wolff hat gesagt…

hey daniel, ordentlich! und was fuer ein move!!! da tut einem ja beim hinkucken der finger weh! wenns wetter demnaechst malpasst, bin ich in deiner grotte dabei ;)