After two weeks of rain we were very happy to meet the sun in Ettringen last sunday.
I did some nice clean climbing and tried an old project on the Höllentor wall. Its a 3m boulder on perfect basalt, it was bolted some years ago by Thomas Wille.
I tried it last year a bit but I coulden't move in it. With the cool temperature now there suddenly were some small holds.
After a lot of tries I figured out how to do it. Like every time in Ettringen it becomes dark to quick... But no problem climbing with headlamp is fun and so you could watch two small lights, Kevin and me walking all the evening from his project to my project and back... After a lot of walking and falling, Kevin becomes a friend of climbing in the dark and send his route and after some more tries I was very happy to send "half live" also.
Going up to the top was a litle adventure, I had to onsight a nice clean crack, but the upperpart was wet and slippery... But at 20:00 I was sitting happy on top of the wall :) What a nice boulderstart! Very slopy, with a very high highstep on a flat slopy edge... trust your feet and thanks fiveten.
After climbing we were invited by Ettringens caretaker and friend Armin to eat pasta, very nice!!!
It shoulden't be a long evening, but it was... The last two times driving back we went on the highway into the wrong direction, so we really took attention (also like the time before... But..after a long time on the highway I recogniced that we were in the oppesite direction again... shit! the third time in a row... Ok, turning around and driving the right way back again... The gas becames less and less... finally we found a gasstation in the middle of nowhere... but they closed when we arrived...there was no gasstation in front of us... so we had to drive back to an other open one... And finally after a long time on the road we arrived back in Siegen..:)
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Posts mit dem Label Ettringen werden angezeigt. Alle Posts anzeigen
Old Shatterhand
Yeah!! New route in the wild west of Germany! Last saturday I was happy to find good conditions for my project in Ettringen. Really great dynamic power-endurance line on pinches and solpers in the roof.
Its the original line I was trying on some weekends during the last year. Schokoade was a version with a soft start, now I was able to do it with the hard beginning.
I fell of around 30 times on the same last hard move, every day like 5 times :-) Directly after this move, a long snatch to a sloper, you move your feet to the other side and do a kneebar to have a no-hand. Two times I fell of with my foot allready placed on the point to do a kneebar, funny exciting. Now I'm happy about sending it, was big fun to try it!!
Now some other projects are waiting :-)
Its the original line I was trying on some weekends during the last year. Schokoade was a version with a soft start, now I was able to do it with the hard beginning.
I fell of around 30 times on the same last hard move, every day like 5 times :-) Directly after this move, a long snatch to a sloper, you move your feet to the other side and do a kneebar to have a no-hand. Two times I fell of with my foot allready placed on the point to do a kneebar, funny exciting. Now I'm happy about sending it, was big fun to try it!!
Now some other projects are waiting :-)
Weekends
Last weekend I visited Luxembourg for the first time this year. Berdorf is one of my favorit climbing areas and the best sandstone I climbed.
On sunday I could do the first ascent of a nice combi-route. "Nu-skool phunk" starts in Nikita and traverses on the nice pocketline to the right where you follow the edge of the roof. The moves are very nice bouldery in the beginning and after athletic in the very steep part. The route ends in the no hand rest were you can sit down on. For clipping you use the first three bolts of Nikita, the 4th bolt of Cima ovest where you should clip 2 or three for easy clipping (its more easy to reach the 3rd but it will be shitty to fall), one bolt of ayrton the one under the roof and for going down you have a bolt between your legs when you sit on top. Try it, it's big fun!!
I also climbed Isatis one of best 7c+ I did. First Isatis is a litle bit overhanging and close to the to is close to be a slab. Very small crimps in the best sandstone I know! On day later I did Yollin after a very long workout. one day before I thought that that Isatis is the hardest 7c+ I know, but Yollin is much harder! the beginning looks not much spectacular from the bottom but there is one very nice boulder. The hard crux comes at the top on the nice flat wall. The holds are very, very small and this route will for sure never get a ascent in the summer sun. During my work out I tried a lot but I coulden't do two moves. When I start my first try from the bottom I had luck to get a bit wind and dry my skin, before the crux you have a good jug for catching wind. Sending this crux was more exciting than my ascents of other 8cs I did. Here everything depends on your skin, a litle swaet and I have no chance to hold this tiny structures. Not possible to get controll because of power. Yollin has for sure one of the most beautifull crux I know!
If you want to climb in Berdorf you need a permission, there are controls!! You can order a permission for free for a few days. More infos here...
The weekend before I was in Ettringen to try my project in the cave. On the last day I fall 5 times on the crux move.
The next move is the hardest, snatching to the sloper on the roof edge...
Very nice trad warmups in Ettringen:
Pictures (c) by Markus Jung
On sunday I could do the first ascent of a nice combi-route. "Nu-skool phunk" starts in Nikita and traverses on the nice pocketline to the right where you follow the edge of the roof. The moves are very nice bouldery in the beginning and after athletic in the very steep part. The route ends in the no hand rest were you can sit down on. For clipping you use the first three bolts of Nikita, the 4th bolt of Cima ovest where you should clip 2 or three for easy clipping (its more easy to reach the 3rd but it will be shitty to fall), one bolt of ayrton the one under the roof and for going down you have a bolt between your legs when you sit on top. Try it, it's big fun!!
I also climbed Isatis one of best 7c+ I did. First Isatis is a litle bit overhanging and close to the to is close to be a slab. Very small crimps in the best sandstone I know! On day later I did Yollin after a very long workout. one day before I thought that that Isatis is the hardest 7c+ I know, but Yollin is much harder! the beginning looks not much spectacular from the bottom but there is one very nice boulder. The hard crux comes at the top on the nice flat wall. The holds are very, very small and this route will for sure never get a ascent in the summer sun. During my work out I tried a lot but I coulden't do two moves. When I start my first try from the bottom I had luck to get a bit wind and dry my skin, before the crux you have a good jug for catching wind. Sending this crux was more exciting than my ascents of other 8cs I did. Here everything depends on your skin, a litle swaet and I have no chance to hold this tiny structures. Not possible to get controll because of power. Yollin has for sure one of the most beautifull crux I know!
If you want to climb in Berdorf you need a permission, there are controls!! You can order a permission for free for a few days. More infos here...
The weekend before I was in Ettringen to try my project in the cave. On the last day I fall 5 times on the crux move.
The next move is the hardest, snatching to the sloper on the roof edge...
Very nice trad warmups in Ettringen:
Pictures (c) by Markus Jung
Schokolade
December 2008 Markus und me visited the Cave in Ettringen again. After 130 km driving
we were happy to find perfect conditions!
It was really freezing and to warm up was really hard. We were very happy about the heater of Armin, which makes the situation comfortable.
We had very good catering!
Warming up my Jet7 :-)
We wanted to try the new soft version of my projekt: Schokolade.
What a nice line, I really like the crux moves! When you are climbing out of "grieg ich gerne" you need a lot of bodytension to go on slopy crimps and walking into a flat undercling. From this undercling you have to dyno up to a sloper on the roof edge. Than it is hard to swing your feet to the left pillar to kneebar. After that its over just technical, nice moves to the left.
After a good checkout of the crux and a few gos I managed to do the hard moves and climb to the top.
It was a long day again ;-)
Schokolade is for sure the hardest rout in Ettringen now. When we worked it out we thought about 11-, everytime it was fucking could and we had no heater. Now with much more warm forearms moving felt much easier! So i think its something like 10+/11-.
Thanks to all belayers and Armin for the heater!
(c)Pictures by Markus Jung
we were happy to find perfect conditions!
It was really freezing and to warm up was really hard. We were very happy about the heater of Armin, which makes the situation comfortable.
We had very good catering!
Warming up my Jet7 :-)
We wanted to try the new soft version of my projekt: Schokolade.
What a nice line, I really like the crux moves! When you are climbing out of "grieg ich gerne" you need a lot of bodytension to go on slopy crimps and walking into a flat undercling. From this undercling you have to dyno up to a sloper on the roof edge. Than it is hard to swing your feet to the left pillar to kneebar. After that its over just technical, nice moves to the left.
After a good checkout of the crux and a few gos I managed to do the hard moves and climb to the top.
It was a long day again ;-)Schokolade is for sure the hardest rout in Ettringen now. When we worked it out we thought about 11-, everytime it was fucking could and we had no heater. Now with much more warm forearms moving felt much easier! So i think its something like 10+/11-.
Thanks to all belayers and Armin for the heater!
(c)Pictures by Markus Jung
Ettringen Nightsession
Letzten Freitag sind Markus und ich nochmal nach Ettringen gefahren um unsere Projekte zu versuchen. Leider sind wir erst recht spät aus Siegen weggekommen, so dass wir vom Tageslicht nicht mehr viel mitbekommen haben und mit Stirnlampe klettern musste.
Andreas Eisenhauer konnte vor kurzem sein Projekt „grieg ich gerne“10-/10 durchgestiegen, eine schöne Einstiegsalternative zu „Krieg der Sterne“10+.
Ich hab Andreas neue Route dann auch als Eintiegsvariante für mein Projekt genutzt. So muss ich nur einen der beiden schweren Boulder klettern und ein Durchstieg in naher Zukunft ist näher gerückt.
Markus konnte sich die zweite Begehung der „grieg ich gerne“in zwei Versuchen hohlen. Ich habe sie danach auch noch durchstiegen können, an den abschüssigen Griffen laufen einem ziemlich die Arme zu! Echt eine super Route, sehr zu empfehlen! Die Kletterei ist sehr interessant, man klettert immer an großen abschüssigen Griffen und um weiter zu ziehen muss man meist irgendwo hooken.
Mal hoffen, dass es trocken bleibt, damit wir wieder hin fahren können...
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