Posts mit dem Label Siurana werden angezeigt. Alle Posts anzeigen
Posts mit dem Label Siurana werden angezeigt. Alle Posts anzeigen

La Rambla


I'm back in Siegen after a good time in Siurana. I'm glad to be taking the Rambla sending experience home with me.

I tried it last year and I wasn't lucky. This time it went better.

It was a big challenge for me, to get the endurance and to be patient.

I don't like giving up when I know that I can do something. I needed to be very patient.
Each time when I felt close and thought I would do it soon, something kept me from having good tries.

Normally it's like that at least once or two times when I try something hard, but in La Rambla it was a bit crazy:

I cut my skin many times and with tape I couldn't fit into some holds or wasn't able to do my crux move...

Sometimes my finger was swollen so I couldn't enter the crack in the beginning....

I slipped off from humid holds several times....



For a few days the top part stayed wet after the rain...



I usually like wind and low temperatures, but some days were extremely windy and cold... 

Luckily during this trip there was only one warm day, but last year it was a way too hot . And I also ran out of climbing shoes, so I had to organize new ones… never happened before :-)
 

All that made it very exciting! It was a lot of fun climbing on it as well as having a good time with good people.  Thanks to everyone!




Now I go to finish another exciting project:

 Jung's Boulderhalle 

the bouldergym my brother Markus and I will open soon in Siegen :)








Nice first ascent in Siurana

(c) Luka Fonda

I was very lucky yesterday. I send a project in Siurana very unexpected! Two days before I thought that it could be to hard for a two week trip. Luckily it was not that hard as I thought and I got the right conditions to the right time yesterday.

I think it has one of the smallest crimps I was crimping...

Santa Linya, Siurana and Leche Caliente

This winter we visited Spain again. We started from the Pfalz with Timm and Sebi. We drove down all the night and reached the cave at 10 in the morning, a good time for a long climbing day. I really like the cave, there were not that many tufas and not so overhanging as I expected and a good first climbing day!



But in the evening bad luck began.. When we started to cook our new MSR cooker directly broke down. For this case we had a campingaz cooker in addition, because we had had some bad experience with the MSR before. Unfortunately -7°C was a bit too cold and that cooker didn't work either... Finally we made a campfire and everything was good.



Having frozen milk and muesli wasn't very comfortable but it was very nice to climb with this tamperatures in the spanish sun.
Sadly it started to snow and we had to spend our first restday in the tent. In the evening we recognized our second problem.. There was no dry wood in the snow and still freezing cold. We were lucky to have enough pasta left from the day before. It was one big funny ice-block which I had to break! Eating it and the weather on the next day was't funny.. We were lucky to stay in the cave so we could climb all day there in spite of the rain. Finally our third day in Santa Linya was our last day on dry rock.



But at least it was getting warmer and the gazcooker worked :-) We were very happy when Blomu dryed during one dry day. Markus and me tried this nice line before.
After three tries I had enough endurance to climb to the last move. Thats the hardest one and very funny. I walked up all the way to caressed the last hold three times, so it was nice to stuck the next go. Nice route! Markus happily send it also that day...


Here he is just at that point where it is going to be pumpy.

... it was the last dry day for Blomu...

After some people had told us that there would be a lot of rain the next days, we turned to Siurana and better weather.
I wanted to take a look at a project which Toni Arbones had proposed me two years ago... It was a project which was bolted by Christian "Pinky" Winklmaier in "grau del massets" a few years ago. Happily he also was there and showed me the moves of his line. I really like it, short bouldery and really nice typical Siurana rock. The hardest is to jump up from a spiky two fingercrimp to catch a sloper. Very nice move! After three detailed workouts I was lucky to catch the sloper and send the route. I really enjoyed this climb, sending was much harder and exciting than Blomu which I had done the day before. When I ordered a leche caliente that evening the bargirl taught me that it was dangerous to order this. It also means "slap in the face", so we thought that this is a nice name for the route, were you have to slap a sloper.

We had some nice days in Siurana, but the day before we planned to drive home it started to snow.



It was snowing so much that there was no chance to climb or to drive down to town. So, we were stuck on the campground. In this region 50 roads were closed, 11 towns without electricity and only two snow ploughs. We had around 60 cm snow and there was no way to drive.



It wasn't boring, there were some more people having the same problem and we were diggin the whole saturday to clear the camp street and get out all cars. Finally Sunday afternoon the snow plough reached the campground and we could drive home.



When the first Uni lecture started we were still on the road. But at the end I only missed one of my three lectures :-)

Super Cowboy

After a lot of workouts and some tries, I’ve managed to do the project! The line which starts in Kalea Borroka and traverses to the left into Aphrodita is now called Super Cowboy. It was bolted by Toni Arbones, so I just had to clean the route a bit and I could start trying.
In contrast to the other routes in El Pati Super Cowboy is just a boulder. It’s just traversing to the left with funny moves on small crimps. To the top you follow a crack line which is nicely technical. Doing the crack intersection is a little bit like adventure climbing. After a lot of workouts I was very, very happy to be able to send this nice line! Traversing is big fun, long moves, crimp hunting and crazy hooks!



Grading is difficult; it’s not possible to compare with other routes on El Pati. But, when I look back it could be the same as “L’odi social”, maybe a bit harder.
I will post some more infos later!
Picture (c) by Miha Škof

Migranya

A pumpy picture story:


This is Emmanuelle the Eidechse, I met her in Siurana. You know her from some pictures I posted before.

We talked a bit about climbing and discussed climbing speed. She said that she would reach the anker of Megranya faster than me!! I couldn't believe that!! So, we got ready for a race!




Three, two, one, gooo!!!


Chalking, perhaps not the best tactic...




The crux of migaya:


Pumpy, pumpy!! Quickly up to the rest!!


Puhh, the rest.. I thought I would be much faster than Emmanuelle the Eidechse and so I took a rest...


And running a again!



Ahh, close to the top... but while I wos doing the last moves I didn't expect that Emmanuelle the Eidechse was waching me from the top of the wall...



Incredible!! The Eidechse was much faster, I was really impressed! Congratulations, Emmanuelle!!

I spend my next climbing day watching her when she was climbing. Now I know what to do to climb as fast and strong as she does! Back here, I start to train like she does...

Pictures (c) by Miha Škof

some more pictures





























(c)Pictures by Jung

my world

Here I will upload in the next days some more pictures I took on my trip.












(c)Pictures by Jung